Cover Art provided by Mr. Dave Baysden
Editor's note: When it came time to roll out our (long overdue) new website we wanted to do something celebrating the people we've met through golf and the places that are still out there for us to explore. We've only scratched the surface on who we need to meet and where we need to go. Jim Hartsell embodies that spirit to the fullest. I met Jim through Sweetens Cove a few years ago and we became fast friends. He's spent the last two-and-a-half decades exploring Scotland and digging deeper than nearly any American I know, non-Tom Coyne division. As an Registered Building Architect, he brings a unique perspective to golf travel, both on and off the course. We're thrilled to roll this series out over the next few months and hope you enjoy. - Tron
The Hidden Soul of the Game
A trip to the fringes of Scottish golf
By Jim Hartsell
A couple of days before embarking on a dream golf trip to Scotland with my son Jake in May of 2019, I had set the alarm for 4 am to enter the online ballot for a tee time at the Old Course. To my surprise, I found that the course was to be closed for visitor play for the duration of our visit to St Andrews. As it turned out, this was a blessing in disguise. On the day we had devoted to playing the most famous course in golf, we instead drove twenty minutes south to Anstruther Golf Club. We put our green fee in an honesty box and proceeded to spend the day on a wild Old Tom Morris nine hole layout by the ocean. It was the most fun I’ve ever had playing golf.
2nd Green at Anstruther Golf Club. Photograph by Jim Hartsell
Golf is supposed to be fun. This concept has been lost for a long period of time, especially in the United States. For many years, courses were designed and promoted based on their length and difficulty. As part of this trend, courses that did not fit the standard of 7000 plus yards, 18 holes and par 72 were relegated to the semi-derogatory category of “short courses” or “holiday golf.” With the increasing popularity of nine hole courses like Sweetens Cove Golf Club in South Pittsburg, Tennessee and Winter Park Golf Club in Florida, Americans are slowly starting to realize that the Scots had it right all along.
The somewhat arrogant implication by certain golf experts has often been that these non-standard, “quirky” layouts are not serious golf, or should even be played by serious golfers. If a golfer is going to the trouble of crossing an ocean to play, they must surely test themselves at championship venues like Carnoustie, Troon and Turnberry. The day we played Anstruther, I hit a full driver into the 7th, an uphill 145 yard par 3. This seems like serious golf to me. Each successive hole asked a new and exciting question. We could not wait to go back around.
Fun and challenging courses can come in all formats and lengths. Par really doesn’t matter at Anstruther Golf Club, other than as a vague frame of reference. The concept of playing golf simply for the sheer enjoyment of it has never been lost in Scotland, a country that has the best collection of fun, “quirky” layouts in the entire world. Seemingly every small town you pass through has a golf course that serves as the social center of the community.
The Midnight Troubadour
Tough and timeless, this polo is built for the long ride. Featuring a crisp, non-collapsing collar and a rugged, stretchy fabric, it's the perfect shirt for any cowboy's wardrobe.
We arrived at Anstruther Golf Club around 8:30 am to find the clubhouse was locked, except for one door leading into a small vestibule outside of the locker rooms. Nobody was around, except for a local member about to go out alone. Perhaps sensing my confusion, he said, “Normally you pay in the bar, but they don’t get here until 10. Just put your money in the wee honesty box and go play.” What followed was a collection of five par 3’s and four par 4’s (Par 31) that almost defy description. Every hole was memorable and fun. How often can you recall every hole in detail after only playing a course once? Anstruther is that kind of place. We played all day. When we came in for lunch following our first 18 holes, I asked the helpful bar manager if I should give her additional money for a day ticket. She looked a bit confused and asked, “You want to play all day? Oh I don’t know, just give me 10 pounds to cover the both of you.” When I told her how much we loved the golf course, she immediately handed each of us an Anstruther ball marker. It would be difficult to find more generous and welcoming people than the Scots.
Yardage is also completely irrelevant when you are playing by the ocean in Scotland. The downhill 238 yard par 3 9th at Anstruther, playing right back into the lovely fishing village, required anything from a 5 iron to driver and full 8 iron during our 45 holes that day. We did not want to leave the place. Matt Maclachlan, the friendly General Manager, met us in the clubhouse bar after we finally decided to stop playing. “I’ve been following your day on twitter, he said. I’m so pleased you’ve enjoyed the course.” We discussed strategy on the various holes with Matt and some older members who were in the bar for an evening pint. When I asked one elderly gentleman how to play the tee shot on “The Rockies” - a blind 238 yard par three 5th played over a cliff and down to the rocky beach located precipitously below - he shook his head slowly and said, “Hit it and pray.” At Anstruther, there is a sincere appreciation for the game and a genuine interest in how visitors feel about the course. A day playing golf at Anstruther, with the sun out and the sparkling ocean in full view, is a perfect day.
5th Hole at Anstruther Golf Club. Photograph by Jim Hartsell
After visiting the Golf House Club at Elie, we reluctantly left the Kingdom of Fife and headed north. Following rounds at Cruden Bay and Fraserburgh, we reached Cullen Links. Cullen, which lies about 3 hours north of St. Andrews over the Firth of Tay and up the coast, is 18 holes. That is where the similarities to a standard 18 hole golf course end. It is a par 63. It is 4800 yards. There is only one par 5. Several shots are played over and around massive red rock formations that look like a scene from Frank Herbert’s Dune.
Cruden Bay. Photograph by Jim Hartsell
Many golfers in the USA were first introduced to Cullen through the popular YouTube travel series Tourist Sauce by the golf merchandise and multi-media group No Laying Up. In the video segment, the NLU boys are seen playing with two time club champion and lifetime Cullen member, George Clark. We were able to arrange to play Cullen with George and he greeted us warmly in the clubhouse bar upon our arrival. After a nice lunch - and requisite pint of Tennent’s - we paid the modest green fee at the bar and went out to play.
Cullen Golf Club. Photograph by Jim Hartsell
With a short and efficient Scottish swing, George was a joy to play with. He gave us the grand tour of the ethereal Cullen Links. You could sense his pride in the course and excitement in the fact that it was starting to receive some notice in the golf world due to the visit from NLU. “I had a man stop me on the street in Aberdeen and shake my hand. He said, “You’re George from Cullen in the No Laying Up video!” It’s all been amazing. Our visitor play is up 30% just now.” He hopes the time has come for more acceptance in the game for courses like Cullen. “I live in Aberdeen now and I’m a member at Murcar, but I drive up here as much as possible to play.” You cannot play Cullen Links without a smile on your face. You might even shoot around par. You may not lose any golf balls. You will play fast. You will hit shots
Source: https://nolayingup.com/blog/hidden-scotland-the-fringes-of-scottish-golf